Ancient cities, medieval markets and modern play-towns, Tunisia has them all in spades

Where on earth is Tunisia? I learnt to quickly provide a one sentence answer to bemused friends as I prepared for my vacation. In North Africa, tucked between Algeria and Libya, along the southern Mediterranean. Yes, I would reassure them, it’s safe and very tourist-friendly, and no, I do not need to wear a head scarf while I am moving about the country. I am a history buff—the kind who reads stories of ancient empires and titanic clashes of civilisations. I had day-dreamt of ancient Carthage, the challenger of mighty Rome, and after its defeat, the seat of Roman Africa. I love the sun and the sea, and lazing on a beach-side café. And North African cuisine with its meltingly rich couscous, and bitingly spicy harissa had always intrigued me. I was excited about a country that offered me this fabulous combination. And my mom—my partner in this adventure—was swept up in the excitement too. Tunis was our base for the first few days, as we explored the north. The city itself is a harmonious mix of the old and the new—European style boulevards (Tunisia is a former French colony) with wrought-iron balconies, cafés and pâtisseries lead to the medina (the old walled city) with narrow winding lanes and chaotic markets. It also has a gem of a museum—The Bardo—filled with superb mosaics that adorned the luxurious villas of Roman Africa. The extraordinary collection at the Bardo was just the appetizer for our main course—the Roman ruins at Carthage, Dougga and El Djem. While the huge bath complex at Carthage gives you a glimpse into the lavish Roman lifestyle, you can actually feel it come alive as you walk down the streets of Dougga. The city is one of the best preserved in Roman Africa— with carved temples, marbled baths, villas, marketplaces, a brothel and a 3,500-seat theatre. The hillside location also provides magnificent views of lush olive groves, fields of grain and dense forests. Finally, El Djem’s spectacular 3rd Century amphitheatre brought to mind every gladiator fight I had ever seen on the screen. You can still see the rooms and underground passages where predatory animals were kept before being released towards the waiting fighters, or where the unfortunate participants waited for their turn at a struggle with violent death. It’s also very rewarding to climb up to the upper seating levels and gaze down on the arena as you take in the scale and drama of the building. After stuffing our imagination with stories from the past, we stuffed ourselves with some delicious French-Arabic fusion food at charming Sidi Bou Said. The chic, clifftop-based medieval village is filled with homes of the very wealthy—including Prince Albert of Monaco—set against the jaw-dropping backdrop of the azure Mediterranean coastline. Its gleaming white walls are a beautiful contrast to the bright blue of the window grills; the entire village is a symphony of blue and white. This is the place where painters like Paul Klee and August Macke were inspired to rethink their notions of light and colour. We spent some very happy hours winding our way through its cobbled streets. We then shifted our base to the south. This is a landscape that’s filled with mountain oases, rocky outcrops, and at the very bottom, the sand dunes of the Sahara desert. The indigenous people of Tunisia—the Berbers— have left their own imprint on this landscape with their underground troglodyte dwellings and distinct way of life. One of our most memorable moments was a visit to a Berber home in Matmata and drinking honeyed mint tea as we admired the weaving skills of the lady of the house. The landscape of the region looks bleak and alien—so much so, that it was chosen as the locale for portions of the Star Wars movies. On the southwest side of the country lie the Atlas Mountains—an opportunity to enjoy magnificent gorges, canyons and lush oases in the middle of nowhere. A restored wooden train called the Red Lizard, once owned by the last king of Tunisia, takes you through the narrow Selja gorges and some truly breath-taking scenery. You can also take a jeep safari up into the oases of Chebika and Tamerza and enjoy beautiful waterfalls on the way. The contemporary villages are built near the old picturesque settlements, places that were abandoned some decades ago due to catastrophic flooding in the region. And on the southern end lies the endless undulating expanse of the Sahara desert—from barren rock and pebbled ground to giant sand dunes higher than a man’s height. A journey out to the desert on the back of camel is an experience to be savoured. And then, if you are lucky enough to be based in Douz, you can come back to your hotel and relax your aching limbs in steaming mineral pools common in that area. No journey in Tunisia is complete without a trip to the holy city of Kairouan. The 7th century Great Mosque is the oldest in North Africa—and built with a spare yet elegant simplicity that soothes and elevates at the same time. Another noteworthy building is the Tomb of Sidi Sahab, decorated with intricately carved marble and stunningly coloured and patterned tiles. Tunisia has a rich tradition of moderate Islam, so visitors of all faiths are welcome into the buildings. Our last stop was Hammamet, the playground of Tunisia, where we spent some time relaxing and washing away the accumulated fatigue of some hectic days. Endless stretches of pristine beaches are surrounded by charming restaurants and cafes where you can while away a lazy afternoon before revving yourself, if you are so inclined, with a variety of water sports. There are also plenty of opportunities to buy Tunisian carpets, metalwork, organic products, very high quality dates and some richly delicious oliveoil. Surprising, endlessly changing and filled with warmth—Tunisia is one place that satisfies both the mind and the soul. Spring and autumn are the best times to visit. That is when the weather is pleasantly sunny, and the foliage lush and cheerful.