COMING OF AGE

Abottle of Rum, a few bottles of Indian Whisky, a bottle of Vodka and “one good bottle of Scotch (for the boss),” was pretty much the standard for parties at Indian homes, in the nineties. Occasionally, there was a guest, who drank only wine. And, more often than not brought their own bottle

Cut to 2000 and the scene had changed dramatically. Even non-drinkers knew that Sula and Grover were “good Indian wines.” Carrying a bottle of Indian wine to a party was quite acceptable

By 2017, even those who formerly swore by “Californian,” “Chilean,” or “Australian” happily extol the virtues of a “plummy” Four Seasons Barrique Reserve Shiraz or a Fratelli Reserve.

The Indian wine industry has maintained a consistent growth rate of between 25 and 30 per cent for the past 15 years. The figures are staggering – from just two million litres of production from India’s first four wineries at the beginning of the century to 18 million litres last year from 90-odd producers

As with any consumable, Indian wines started to improve after the first decade (the nineteen eighties). In the nineties, people bought Indian wine as a gift for parties but continued buying the ‘better stuff’ (French or Californian) for their own drinking pleasure.

Accessibility was the ace in the pack, which the turn of the century ushered in. “You do get some amazing imported wines in India, but what you get in Bangalore, you won’t find in Delhi... If it is available in Mumbai, that’s the only place you can get it,” says Kasturi Jacob, who hosts exclusive, limited-audience, wine-tasting sessions in his Delhi basement. He usually offers only one imported wine per session to aid comparison. “Indian wine, on the other hand, is available across the country and there is a consistency in terms of prices, brands, and availability... very important for regular consumers,” he says.

The availability of an array of wines in even the most humble liquor vends also played its role. Whites like Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, and even Rieslings are easily found. The Reds include Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, and Merlot. And all of these are ‘Made in India’

An added bonus is that now liquor vends in several major cities have “women only” outlets to enable women shoppers to browse undisturbed while they choose their favourite wine. “Madamji, yeh Chandon Brut leke dekhiye, yeh bilkul Champagne jaisa hai par ek bottle Champagne ke daam mein chaar bottle milegi,” says the helpful attendant at one such vend in East Delhi’s Mayur Vihar. He’s not just trotting out manufacturerdriven advertising spiel when telling you that this sparkling wine is similar to Champagne but at a quarter of the price. Prem Singh says he routinely asks returning customers for feedback on Indian wines they buy.

Clearly, if sales are any indication, wine drinkers in India are quite happy to pay a few thousand Rupees or more for a good Indian wine. With Maharashtra, Himachal Pradesh, and Karnataka producing the lion’s share of Indian wines, prices range from as low as Rs 170 for a bottle of Figueira Ruby Port to Rs 5000 for a Zampa Insignia

Rolika Batra and her husband began educating their wine palates a few years ago. “One weekend a month, we get a bottle of wine and spend Saturday evening drinking it, listening to music. The Indian wines that we’ve been trying have been mostly very good.” Husband Suveen says, “for instance in February, we tried Reveilo Chardonnay Reserve after reading somewhere that it is India’s first Chardonnay. I paid less than Rs 1500 for it. We bought it a few more times after that to serve at home parties and everyone agreed that it goes well with typical Indian tandoori snacks.” The couple’s other favourite has been a Krsma Sauvignon Blanc.

An element of nationalistic pride in the industry is evident even in umbrella body websites such as that of the Indian Wine Academy. Its banner says, “Don’t say Cheers! Say Jai Ho!!”

The coming of age of the Indian wine industry has included the development of tourism-friendly vineyard properties. The Four Seasons Vineyards in Maharashtra include a spa and a swimming pool in addition to the expected vineyard trails and tasting sessions. The York Winery offers you a tasting room overlooking a lake, while Sula, always the pioneer, offers public educational tours, India’s first heritage winery resort – The Source - and of course the annual Sulafest.

The Indian wine industry’s investment in educating the drinking audience about the advantages of domestically produced wine has also paid off. “When you account for the import duties tacked on to a bottle of imported wine, often it is easy to find a much better option made right here in Maharashtra,” a Mumbai-based sommelier advises.

“An imported wine selling here for about Rs 1000 may be selling only for about Rs 300 in its country of origin. Not all imported wine is excellent and not all domestic wine is trashy,” he informs. The fact that hotels and restaurants have also ditched their earlier bias about offering only the cheapest Indian wines on the wine list, has helped educate people about what’s available. “You drink a glass of York Sauvignon Blanc at Rs 300 or a Sula Blush Zinfandel for Rs 400, and then if you like it, you can always go home and buy a bottle for your next wine expedition,” said the manager at a Delhi fine dining restaurant.

Industry insiders say exports of Indian wine, primarily to Malaysia, some middleeastern nations; Bhutan, Germany, and the UK are worth well over seven million US dollars with around two million litres of export sales. Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc are what foreigners want from India.

Indian Vineyards have also come a long way from the nineties. They now offer Reserves and make special blends for hotels, tailored to suit a specific menu or cuisine.

Wine industry observers across the world are now conceding that Indian wines are here to give the rest a run for their money. The odds that have been overcome are incredible. Winemakers in India have found ways to produce outstanding wines despite the tropical heat, the traditional disfavour with which wine consumption was viewed, the complicated system of taxes and levies, which vary from state to state.

So what do experts recommend for those who want to drink wine? Experiment, be adventurous, it is only a bottle of wine. Order by the glass at restaurants, try the cheaper varieties first when you buy bottles, and most importantly, remember the wine is for you to enjoy. Jai Ho!!