During the month-long fasting of Ramzan, the old quarters of New Delhi come alive with long nights of feasting in between the fasting. In this cycle of daily ritual, it is time to pray, eat and love.
The faasla (space) between fasting and feasting is an interesting one for all those who look forward to those gourmet nights in the city's old quarters during the month of Ramadan or as we in Delhi have always called it Ramzan. It is also the time when the distance between New Delhi and Old Delhi seems to get blurred in the aromas around the majestic Jama Masjid and the two quarters mingle for a while. The month of Ramzan transforms the lanes that spread like tentacles into the gut of Purani Dilli or Delhi 6 as coded by its pin.
Chawri Bazar, Chitli Qabr, Matia Mahal the names itself evoke a certain sensuality as these lanes explode with life and colour in the month-long fasting that is central to the climax of Eid. And for the believers and non-believers, it's also the feasting that gives the festival its dimension.
Ramadan/Ramzan and Eid al-Fitr are important occasions in Muslim lives that begin and end with the appearance of the new moon. The appearance of the new moon signals the first day of Ramadan and after completing 29 days of fasting on that night, the religious leaders set out for another moon sighting.
Fasting is an act of Ibadah (worship) and one of the five pillars of Islam. Its basis is found in the Quran which reads: "Oh you who believe fasting is prescribed to you as it was prescribed to those before you that you may attain Taqwa (GodFearing)."
This verse has two contexts to understand, first, that fasting is not exclusive to Muslims; it was already practiced by the Prophets before Muhammad.
The best example a Muslim can cite is the fasting followed by the Jewish tradition like that of Prophet Nabi Isa (Jesus Christ). Jesus fasted for 40 days and the significance of his act appeared to be a preparation for his ministry. In the same way, Muslims considered fasting as a spiritual training to attain Taqwa which is the second context of the verse. Taqwah is an Arabic term which means “piety”.
Ramadan is full of sacrifices, yet most loved by the Muslims. They experience two occasions of joy—first, during the time of Iftar (breaking of the fast) when one completes his day of sacrifice and second when the fasting person meets his Creator.
The shift in mood from fasting to festivity is evident in every Muslim household. Even the poorest family prepares something which family members can share. Mothers cook special food and delicacies to offer visitors and friends. Some families prefer to go out. Jama Masjid or any other important masjid bustle at the evening hours as the faithful prepare to break their fasts. The huge courtyard of the Jama Masjid looks like a massive picnic with families, the young and the old, gathered with their baskets of fruits and food to eat together in a sense of community. Food is an important part of Ramzan as much fasting is. So let’s take a sample from the huge spread that beckons all through the night of feasting. The road opposite Jama Masjid's Gate No 1 is Matia Mahal. This is the place to be after the Iftaar namaaz and you will lose yourself in a world of culinary delight.
Melt-in-the-mouth Kebabs
With Jama Masjid as your backdrop, you hit the outer lane (Urdu Bazaar Road) all lit up with kebab shops. At Lalu's and Qureshi’s, slender and juicy kebabs are served hot off the griddle. These are the softest kebabs you’ll find and full of flavour.
Urdu Bazaar Road. Lalu's is one of the first kebab shops that you'll see. For Qureshi's walk further down the road.
Changezi Chicken
Juicy bits of chicken marinated in spices, coated with chickpea flour and fried golden. The crispy texture with soft insides has won many hearts. It is served with a red chutney that can put your mouth on fire. During Ramzan, they also serve Keema Golis (minced meat balls served with onions). If you reach around Iftar time, you’ll manage to get some.
Shahi Tukda
This is the place for desserts: Large platters of beautifully decorated Shahi Tukda or Matka Phirni you know you can’t resist. Golden fried slices of bread simmered in milk and topped with khoya and desi ghee. 973, Bazar Matia Mahal, Jama Masjid.
Nahari
The Nahari at Bilal is so sublime that it's absolutely worth elbowing your way to get here. The meat is slow-cooked for hours which makes it delicate and tender. It is then simmered in gravy with spices and garnished with a squeeze of lime and green chillies.
Chicken Tikka
The Chicken Tikka served here, bathed in butter, is a work of art. Plump pieces of chicken are marinated with Indian spices and yogurt, grilled on long skewers and laced with some simmering hot butter. 540, Bazaar Matia Mahal, Jama Masjid.
Pyaar Mohabbat Maza
Originally from Uttar Pradesh, you'll find his food carts dotted across the lane selling a blush pink drink popularly called ‘Pyaar Mohabbat Maza’. This refreshing concoction is a mix of watermelon, milk and Rooh Afza. It’s fragrant, it’s light and it's got these gorgeous chunks of watermelon that make it come alive.
Gud ka Sharbat
No roof, no board and no shop. This gur sharbat has been around since 1947 and at the time was sold for 10 paise. The sharbat is basically jaggery soaked in ice-cold water, strained and served.
Dori Kebab
It’s famous for its Dori Kebab and Boti Kebab. It's run by two brothers who sit there next to the flaming tandoor, grab some spiced meat paste with their practiced hands, wrap it around skewers with thread and the let them grill over charcoal, almost effortlessly. The Dori Kebabs melt in your mouth and are seriously addictive, while the Boti Kebabs are crisp and spicy. 1465-B, Near Masjid Sayed Rafai, Bazar Chitli Qabar
Mirchi Masala Biryani
Pieces of meat cooked for hours along with saffron flavoured rice to give you some delicious biryani. The Mirchi Masala Biryani is a must at Mota Pehelwaan but if it still doesn't satisfy your thirst for biryani then head to Dilpasand which has been long praised for its Achaari Biryanis. Dilpasand Biryani -735, Haveli Azam Khan, Chitli Qabar Mota Pehelwaan — Shop no. 701, Haveli Azam Khan, Chitli Qabar
Karim’s and Al Jawahar
These two restaurants aren't just popular in Delhi, but in fact, are world renowned. Help yourself to some kebabs and biryani at Al Jawahar or the Mutton Korma made in pure desi ghee at Karim’s. These iconic restaurants are right at the head of the road as you enter Matai Mahal.