The mighty Brahmaputra’s mighty sweep is a sight you cannot easily forget. Just barely a short walk from the quaint Circuit House on stilts in Dibrugarh on a monsoon evening the raging Brahmaputra looks like the ocean. Little wonder that most of Dibrugarh have been swallowed by this gigantic river moving inwards as the years go by. Not far from Dibrugarh lies the town of Jorhat once the capital of the Ahom kingdom. From Jorhat, one can unravel the puzzle of Majuli.
Beached amid the mighty Brahmaputra River’s ever-shifting puzzle of ochre sandbanks is Majuli,which at around 450 sq km is India’s largest river island. For a place continually ravaged by the primal forces of nature (much of the island disappears under water every monsoon), Majuli flaunts unparalleled scenic beauty. The island is a relaxed, shimmering mat of glowing rice fields and water meadows bursting with hyacinth blossoms.
The two main villages are Kamalabari, 3km from the ferry port, and Garamur, 5km further north. Highlights of a visit here include birdwatching (nearly 100 species live here) and learning about neoVaishnavite philosophy at Majuli’s 22 ancient satras (Hindu Vaishnavite monasteries and centres for art).
Surveys indicate that, at current levels of erosion the island will cease to exist within the next two decades.
It is one of Assam’s best-kept secrets, the riverine island of Majuli with its green cover and old traditions. In fact, the legend goes that Radha and Krishna had once decided to elope and checked out many places among which was an emerald isle floating on the Brahmaputra. It is said that Radha was so enchanted by the island that Krishna said it would be the next Dwarka, the kingdom of the creator. Such are the fables that envelop this little gem and once there you will appreciate the Krishna legend and agree with it.
The island has been the centre of the neoVashnavaite culture that you find all across Assam. The little island is more than 300 km from the state capital Guwahati but you can reach the shrinking island after a half hour ferry ride from Jorhat. The island is home to not more than two lakh people with a great mix of races as varied as Brahmins, Kalitas, Misings, Deoris among others.
With the island attracting tourists from around the world, one can now take a cruise on luxury vessels but its another experience to hop on to the ferries which the locals take to cross over every day. Laden with cars, bikes and people these sputtering boats take you from Neemati Ghat to Kamalabari Ghat. The short hop is quite an adventure for the first timers to watch daily passengers settle down for a game of cards.
Next, you drive across paddy and mustard fields on your way to your hotel or guest house but what holds your attention are these unique looking bamboo homes built on stilts as the mighty Brahmaputra keeps flooding the island. These houses of the Mising tribe have a fireplace at the centre of the house and one can see the Mising women working at their looms made of bamboos and cycle wheels.
The Misings are known to weave some fine Mekhela Chador, the two-piece sari worn by Assamese women but here they weave them for their own use unlike the people of Sualkuchi village which is known for its lovely silk Mekhela Chadors. The men keep themselves busy by making beds out of bamboo and other furniture when they are not farming or fishing.
Communications could become a challenge as the locals don’t speak any other language but their own but they are never short on warmth and hospitality and even the poor will invite you to their homes and offer a cup of tea and the local sweet pancake or pitha with a smile and a come again invite.