A combination of a good meal, lovely atmosphere, and pocket-friendly prices

Right here madam.” “Where?” “You are standing before it.” Had it not been for my Samaritan I would have not found Le Bistro du Parc on my first visit. Due to inexplicable reasons, the Delhi electricity board had cut off power in a portion of Moolchand Market; add to that, the bistro’s generators were acting up. Thus, the eatery was plunged into inky darkness in the middle of its busiest hours on a Saturday. The silver lining was that the customers and the patroness were resolute to be patient. However, it did not seem such an opportune moment to conduct an interview (more customers were queuing in), so Naina de-Bois Juzan and I shook hands over a later date. Day two; things were smoother, and we managed to have a laugh over Saturday’s panic, and a chat over a strong cup of espresso. If some of you are rolling your eyes over “yet another French restaurant” be not quick to judge. This is a bistro; not a fancy cafe or restaurant—not technically. For those uninitiated into the concept of bistro vis-a-vis a cafe (I was), the focus is on ambiance and food equally—both have to be accessible and comforting. Finery is not the key, familiarity is. It is the closest we can get to the concept of a canteen where tables are small, customers jostle just a bit for space, and it is all noisy and bustling, but pleasantly so. Most importantly, the menu changes according to ingredients available and procured locally on a daily basis. As its very young patroness (cut off a few years and the co proprietor would not have been able to drink legally at her own restaurant), Naina de Bois-Juzan, describes it; “A bistro is the closest you could possibly get to a dhaba-like atmosphere where the day’s curries and dal change.” One would really have to stretch their imagination to see the resemblance between Le Bistro du Parc and a dhaba, but I get her point. Le Bistro du Parc is a charmingly simple place with small tables covered with modest white-and-yellow tablecloths, straight-back chairs (“They are comfortable but not the plushest”), with a smattering of white, blue and yellow everywhere. There is an eye-arresting photograph of a man’s sweater clicked by a friend. Set up in association with Olive Bar&Kitchen, this is a nofrills place where provisional menu is written out on a blackboard. If you want a closer look, the waiters carry the board to your table. It is a place where the patroness can be seen clearing tables, taking down orders or standing behind the bar. It is also an eatery where the classically-trained French Chef Stephane Mathonneau visits the local marts every morning to get the ingredients, then cooks and tastes it (along with de-Bois Juzan), to take a call to see if it fits the day’s menu. Some of the signature dishes taste Provencal with a firm focus on fresh vegetables as little unsullied as possible by that extra something. One of the most-talked of dishes is the celadon salad; a plate of zucchini, pistachios, green apples, grapes and cucumbers all chopped and cut to a similar size and drizzled over with a dressing of pea puree and mint oil. Then there are the pan-fried calamaris in tomato and olive sauce cooked Provencal-style. The desserts that customers have been going a bit gaga over, are the poached pear in chocolate and the mousse au chocolat—a recipe allegedly passed on by Chef Mathonneau’s grandmother. Le Bistro du Parc seems to be getting some things right—while researching, I came across a blog that even waxed eloquent about fries which came with the Cote de Boeuf a Partager, Tomates a la Provencale and Sauce aux Morilles (that’s rib of beef for two, roasted tomatoes and morel sauce which come with home made french fries). One of the strongest points of the bistro—as friends point out—is that it offers the freedom to order starters as mains, and the mains to be served as small plates. Thus, full freedom to regulate one’s gluttony. A gourmet at heart, de-Bois Juzan confesses, sometime, she gives into cravings—could be for a miso soup or a rajma-chawal—for a particular. One such hunt for quality French food, left her so disappointed that de- Bois Juzan decided to step up. First came the research. Months of it followed, mainly to get a Chef who would not only adjust to cooking for Indians, but also to cooking in India. She found a similar soul in Mathonneau. Together, they set off to tweak just a bit; not Indianise dishes, but to localise ingredients. And the bistronomy idea (combining gastronomy at bistro prices and ambiance) was formed. When Olive Bar&Kitchen came on board, the stage was set for Le Bistro du Parc where de-Bois Juzan admits she finally feels satiated, when it comes to authentic French food.