For the best view of four of the five highest peaks in the world head to Sandakphu

Sandakphu may not ring a bell for many travellers. But for the inveterate adventure seeker or the bona fide trekker, it is the ultimate destination. Tucked away in the eastern edge of India in the Darjeeling district of West Bengal is this tiny hamlet atop the eponymous peak, the highest peak in the state. So what makes Sandakphu so special? The climb to the highest point of this hill station situated at an altitude of 3,636m promises you a sight that will leave you gasping. The arduous trek that takes three to four days to reach the point is well worth the never-before sight of Nature in all its glory. Located to the northwest of Darjeeling town, the trek to Sandakphu packs one memorable adventure. This 32 km adventure trail along the Singalila Range is actually considered a beginner’s trek, the best place for a first-time adventure tourist to begin. One of the most beautiful terrains for trekking, the best time for the Sandakphu experience is April-May (spring) and October-November (post monsoon). But the stark beauty of snow-covered Sandakphu in the harsh winter months is something that only the most experienced trekkers dare to experience. To reach Sandakphu, one has to begin a 12-hour trek from Maneybhanjang, known as the Gateway to Singalila and Sandakphu. It takes four days to reach Sandakphu on foot. The best way to reach the tiny hamlet is via the hill town of Darjeeling. Maneybhanjang is about 26 km from Darjeeling by road. Travellers can opt to take public transport (shared jeeps or buses) upto Sukhiapokhri which is a one-hour drive from Darjeeling and from there change to another onward going transport up to Maneybhanjang. Trekkers can use this latter stretch as a warm-up leg, as Maneybhanjang is a 4km trek from Sukhiyapokhri.

Maneybhanjang, a hamlet on the border of India and Nepal, is situated at the height of 2,150m. Tourists can take a jeep safari in a Land Rover, a relic of the British Raj, to Sandakphu or Singalila National Park from here. If so inclined, break your journey and spend the night at one of the friendly lodges or home-stays. You can check out the Tibetan monastery and the quaint bazaar the next morning before proceeding to Sandakphu. Starting a trek early in the morning is always advisable. If you can leave Maneybhanjang at the crack of dawn, the tea break at Chitrey at around 6am will be rejuvenating. Breakfast can be had at Meghma, a small village; this will come as much-needed relief after the steep three-and-a-halfhour climb up the 7km stretch. It takes another 2km walk to reach Tonglu, one of the peaks of the Singalila Range at an altitude of 3,070m. Meghma Tea House, a small eatery, takes care of the hunger pangs and also offers accommodation. In Tonglu there is a Trekker’s Hut. For those wanting to break journey for a view of the valleys of Nepal, plains of Bengal, the snow-fed Teesta River, Koshi and a number of smaller rivers dotting the bird’s eye view from the peak, a night stay at Tonglu is recommended.

The downhill walk from Tonglu takes the trekker to Gairibas situated at 2,621m. After walking continuously for two hours covering a distance of 9km, through bamboo glades, one reaches Gairibas. From here the climb begins through the charming rhododendron forests to reach Kalipokhri, which is a further 6km trek. It takes around three hours to reach the ‘black pond’, named so because of its black water which does not freeze even on the coldest day. The next stop is Bhikeybhanjan or the Valley of Poison. The valley has got its name from the poisonous aconite plants that grow in abundance here. The weary trekker can have lunch and take a nap before the last lap to the final destination. The last leg to Sandakphu is a steep 4km trek.But the path is so picturesque that it makes the effort worth the pain. In spring, a walk through the forests promises a vista of trees heavy with blooming rhododendrons, giant magnolias, spruce and orchids. Sandakphu is the only spot in the world to boast of silver fir forests, and 600 varieties of orchids. From this vantage point, a visitor can have a never-before view of four of the five highest mountain peaks of the world—Mt Everest, Makalu, Kanchenjunga and Lhotse.

Sandakphu means height of the poison plants, i.e. the aconites flowering on the highest peak in Darjeeling. The aconite flowers are in vibrant shades of purple and yellow, their beauty taking away some of the sting. There are a couple of private lodges and a Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council Trekker’s Hut at the village atop the summit. The best time for this once in a lifetime panoramic date with Nature is early dawn. Step outdoors and stand on the hilltop. In the foreground you will see the deep basin with thick vegetation and pops of bright colours—the rhododendrons growing on the slopes. At the back, rise the mountains, impenetrable. The towering Kanchenjanga with her attendant peaks Kabru, Pandim and Kumbhkaran, and the graceful Everest dominate the whole range of mountain peaks. The ranges of Nepal, Sikkim and Bhutan form 320 km of an unbroken snow barrier but they are dwarfed by the mighty Kanchenjanga and the beautiful Everest. Smaller snowy ranges fill up the space between the two giants.

As the sunlight strikes Sandakphu, the white peaks of the Everest family in the West in Nepal, 160 km from where you stand, become awash in the red-gold hue of the sun. The Everest (20,029 ft) rises in all its glory above the valleys and ridges. You can also see the fifth-highest peak, Mt Makau (27,825 ft), rising like a huge snow pyramid, along with Mt Chamlang (24,006 ft) and Mt Lhotse, the fourth-highest peak at 27,940 ft, further west towards Nepal behind the ranges of the Everest family. Look to your east beyond the great Kachenjunga and you will see Narsing, Donkya, Chola and Chumalhari ranges that form the Tibetan frontier. The red glow of the sun adds a halo to the mountains that look like a crown of snow reaching up in the sky. Their beauty is indescribable. Trekkers may opt to continue further to Phalut, another 23 km from Sandakphu, and camp at Singalila Pass or stay at the trekker’s hut there. Phalut Summit, the tri-junction of Sikkim, Nepal and West Bengal, provides an aweinspiring view of the snow-clad Kanchenjunga peak, which is just 48 km from this point. The scenery in the company of the silent yaks is a moment to treasure and is etched in the mind forever.

Coming back to Sandakphu, for those who opt for the four-wheeled ride to the hamlet, there is still much to savour on the way back. Drive through the Singalila National Park, which is one km from Tumling, a small hamlet two km from Tonglu. Tumling is more popular with the trekkers than Tonglu as it offers better lodging facilities. Situated at 9,600 ft, this village of Nepal is inhabited by just about 10-15 Nepali families. There is no border restriction and the village offers a beautiful view of both the Kanchenjunga and the Sandakphu peaks.